Firehouse Challenge: Packaged vs. Homemade Holiday Dinner Classics

December 14, 2012 By 1 Comment

For years, a relative of mine served boxed stuffing at her holiday gatherings, spiced up with cut-up pre-cooked turkey sausage. When I offered to make some homemade stuffing one year, she waved me off. “No one can the tell the difference, anyway.”

Funny, but I could absolutely tell the difference. Was it just me? I contemplated on how real mashed potatoes, gravy, fresh green beans and cranberry sauce would stack up to their processed cousins. What about supermarket turkey versus a fresh, organic bird?

There’s only one way to find out.

This year, I decided to make two dinners with the classic holiday side dishes — mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, green beans and cranberry sauce. The catch: one featured all homemade sides, and the other, they cam came from a box, can or jar. 

I needed objective judges. Fortunately, there’s a group of individuals more than up for the task: the guys on Shift A at the Station 1 in Holmes Beach, my local firehouse in Florida. 

In addition to the side dishes, I threw in another comparative tasting — a standard supermarket-brand turkey breast (Publix) and a higher-priced organic version from an upscale grocery (The Fresh Market). 
 
The video offers an overview, the next few pages break down each of the dinner components by hassle factor, price, time and specific flavor comments from the firefighters. Also, you’ll find links to most of the recipes, too.
 
Let’s take a closer look.
Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Firehouse Challenge: Cranberry sauce

December 13, 2012 By 3 Comments

Growing up, I assumed that cranberries grew in the shape of a can. I am not alone.  When I was nine, my Aunt Judy made cranberry relish from whole berries and nothing was the same again.

Of all the classic side dishes, cranberry relish is by the far the least challenging. If you can open a can, you can make it from scratch; it’s a pour and stir operation. 

Homemade Cranberry Relish

My family recipe calls for adding in some kind of alcohol as a flavoring, such as port, a sweet red wine or Cointreau. But frankly, if you don’t have it on hand, don’t rush out and buy a whole bottle. Just simmering some berries with sugar, water and a bit of orange juice will suffice beautifully, especially when enhanced with some cinnamon,  ginger or Chinese five-spice.  Around the holidays, you can find whole cranberries on sale. I based my cost per serving on $2.39 per bag. 

Process: Measure out sugar, orange juice and other ingredients. Pour into the pan, stir with the cranberries and simmer for about 20 minutes. (See my recipe here on CookFearless.)
Active time:  4 minutes
Total time:  20 minutes
Cost per serving: 41 cents 
Ingredients: CRANBERRIES, SUGAR, ORANGE JUICE, ORANGE LIQEUR, GRATED ORANGE ZEST, CANDIED GINGER 
 

Canned Jellied Cranberry Sauce

It’s quite straightforward: open, slice, serve. Worth noting: corn syrup is listed twice on the label. 

Process: Open the can, pour onto a serving dish, slice
Active time: 4 minutes
Total time: 4 minutes 
Cost per serving: 44 cents
Ingredients: CRANBERRIES, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, WATER, CORN SYRUP 

The Result

Homemade cranberry relish: 7
Canned relish: 0

Certainly, there are fans of the sliced-from-a-can variety cranberry relish, but the homemade relish was a big hit with the firemen.

  • “The difference is huge. I don’t even like cranberry relish normally, and I’m going back for seconds.”
  • “I can totally taste the orange in this.” 
  • “This isn’t in the same league with the stuff in the can. I mean, I actually like this.”
  • “It’s sweet, but in a complex way.”  

 

 

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Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Firehouse Holiday Dinner Challenge: Gravy

December 13, 2012 By 3 Comments

At its heart, gravy is a sauce. Sauces flummox home cooks. I interviewed a woman at a supermarket who told me, “I’ve burned gravy, I’ve made greasy gravy, I’ve made lumpy gravy, I’ve made bland gravy. So, I add a packet of seasoning to my homemade gravy and it somehow works out.”  Her reasons are why many cooks turn to packaged gravy, either in the form of a packet or in a jar. 

Homemade gravy

Homemade gravy is inexpensive to make if you’re starting with a whole roasted bird. You simply drain off the liquid, add back in a bit of the fat, stir in some flour to make a roux and then add liquid – usually stock. But in fairness to home cooks everywhere, that’s four techniques that not everyone has mastered – roasting a bird, making a roux, making stock and then finishing a sauce. 

Process: I removed about three tablespoons of leftover fat from one of the turkeys, stirred in three tablespoons of flour and then added about two cups or so of previously prepared turkey stock. I also added a bit of thyme, salt and pepper to taste.
Active time:  11 minutes
Total time:  22 minutes
Cost per two tablespoon serving:  7 cents 
Ingredients: TURKEY STOCK, TURKEY DRIPPINGS, FLOUR, THYME, SALT, PEPPER

Jar of Gravy

I’ll be honest. I had imagined the jar of gravy holding many more preservatives and artificial ingredients. Aside from an overtly saltiness and paler color, it had the consistency of thick gravy. Each small serving had about 14% daily sodium requirement, though.

Process: Opened jar, poured into pan and heated
Active time:  3 minutes
Total time:  5 minutes
Cost per two tablespoon serving:  17 cents
Ingredients: TURKEY BROTH, MODIFIED CORN STARCH, WATER, SALT, SEASONINGS
 

The Result

Homemade Gravy: 7
Gravy from a Jar: 0 

No one particularly objected to the packaged gravy. After all, gravy’s primarily function – to moisten and flavor other foods – can be performed adequately by the jarred sauce, even if it doesn’t taste exactly like homemade. One of the firemen noted that he was used to the saltier flavor of the packaged gravy. Another said he preferred the thicker consistency over my homemade, which he thought tasted better although it was a bit thinner. But in general, they all preferred the homemade gravy. 

  • “I’m used to eating the high-salt store-bought gravy so… I guess this taste more like what I’m used to.”
  • “This has a blander, saltier flavor but otherwise it’s OK.”
  • “It’s fine although it doesn’t taste quite as good as [the homemade version].”
  • “It’s interesting to see that the color is actually different in the two gravies. Side by side, you can tell the difference just by looking at them.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 -> NEXT: Cranberry sauce

 

Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Firehouse Challenge: Real mashed potatoes vs. Instant

December 13, 2012 By Leave a Comment

I can understand the lure of instant mashed potatoes, and you want comfort, you want it now. According to Wisegeek.com, a Canadian scientist developed instant mashed back in 1962. Here’s how the real thing stacked up to the packaged variety in our challenge. 

 

 

   

 

 

Homemade mashed potatoes

At $3.99 for a five pound bag of Yukon Gold potatoes and 65 cents in butter and milk, homemade wins in the cost department. The standard serving size for mashed potatoes used by caterers is about 2/3 cup mashed potatoes per person. But packages for instant mashed potato list 1/2 cup as a serving, so I  used that as a standard although my brothers would look at me as if I was shorting them payment if I served up only half a cup.  

A pound of potatoes yields about two cups mashed or four servings. So, five pounds of potatoes yields 20 servings. Although they are not challenging, homemade mashed potatoes do take time. There’s peeling and mashing, plus you need a large pot, a strainer and at least a fork. 

Process: Peel the potatoes, boil, mash with butter, milk, salt and pepper. (See the full CookFearless recipe – with a video – on perfect mashed potatoes.) 
Active time:  18 minutes (peeling, mashing)
Total time:  38 minutes
Cost per serving: 23 cents
Ingredients: POTATOES, BUTTER, MILK, SALT, PEPPER

 

Instant Mashed Potatoes 

In the bag you get four ounces of powdered mashed potatoes and the other stuff listed below. The Idahoan package reads “with Buttery Homestyle flavored mashed potatoes, you’ll enjoy the superior taste of Idaho potatoes blended perfectly with real butter. They’re satisfyingly rich. They’re delightfully creamy. And the genuine buttery flavor is 100% irresistible.”

However, there is no actual butter listed in the ingredients, only a “butter powder” that includes sweet cream, salt and annatto coloring. But since butter is made from cream originally, this may be viewed as splitting hairs. An issue here is about the reliability of the serving size quoted. In the supermarket, I asked a woman buying this product how many servings a packet usually yields and she said two. “My husband and I usually split one.” She was buying six packets for Thanksgiving to feed seven guests. Each 1/2 cup serving contained a hearty 19% of daily sodium intake.

Process: Add pouch contents to boiling water. Remove from heat, let stand one minute. Fluff with fork. 
Active time:  2 minutes
Total time:  4 minutes  
Total Cost: $1.39 per packet                 
Cost per serving:  35 cents
Ingredients: IDAHO® POTATO SLICES (PRESERVED WITH SODIUM BISULFITE), PARTIALLY HYDROGENATED OIL* (CONTAINS ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING: SOYBEAN, COTTONSEED, SUNFLOWER), CORN SYRUP SOLIDS, SALT, MALTODEXTRIN, COCONUT OIL, NONFAT DRY MILK, SUGAR, WHEY POWDER, SODIUM CASEINATE, BUTTER POWDER (BUTTER: SWEET CREAM, SALT ANNATTO COLOR), NONFAT MILK SOLIDS, SODIUM CASEINATE AND DISODIUM PHOSPHATE,  MONO & DIGLYCERIDES, CALCIUM STREARoYL LACTYLATE, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS, SPICE, SODIUM ACID PYROPHOSPHATE (TO MAINTAIN FRESHNESS), SODIUM BISULFITE (TO MAINTAIN FRESHNESS), DIPOTASSIUM PHOSPHATE, LECITHIN, ARTIFICIAL COLOR, CITRIC ACID (TO MAINTAIN FRESHNESS), MIXED TOCOPHEROLS (VITAMIN E) (TO MAINTAIN FRESHNESS) AND LESS THAN 2% SILICON DIOXIDE ADDED AS AN ANTI-CAKING AGENT.

The Result 

Homemade mashed potatoes: 7
Instant mashed potatoes: 0 

All seven firefighters not only favored the real mashed potatoes over the packaged variety, they picked them out right away. Among their comments:

  • “The real mashed have a butter flavor. The instant ones taste like the butter salt on popcorn.” 
  • “The instant ones tasted like the kind that come in a TV dinner.”
  • “The [instant potatoes] are really white, like they’ve been bleached.”
  • “Compared to the real potatoes, [the instant ones] taste sort of flat and salty.” 
  • “I have to admint, I’m used to [the instant potatoes] since I eat a lot of frozen dinners.”
  • “The homemade potatoes have a rich, smooth texture. I could eat a ton of these.” 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 -> NEXT: Stuffing

Filed Under: Fearless Holidays Tagged With:

Firehouse Challenge: Green Beans canned vs. fresh

December 13, 2012 By 2 Comments

Green beans are a classic side dish for any holiday. I debated an update on green bean casserole, but decided instead to serve fresh green beans and canned green beans, each were lightly sauteed in butter with garlic, salt and pepper and finished with a squeeze of fresh lemon. 

Fresh Green Beans

Green beans are pretty simple to prepare. I put mine into a skillet with a bit of water and steamed them for about eight minutes. I drained the pan, wiped it dry and then sauteed them in butter with garlic for about three minutes.  I bought mine for 99 cents per pound; a pound yields about four servings.

Process: Steam or boil for about six to eight minutes, then lightly saute in butter 
Active time:  4 minutes 
Total time:  11 minutes 
Cost per 1/2 cup serving: 28 cents
Cleanup factor: One pan
Ingredients: GREEN BEANS, BUTTER, GARLIC, SALT, PEPPER, LEMON JUICE

Canned Green Beans

Process: Open a can, drain excess water, lightly saute in butter 
Active time:  4 minutes 
Total time:  8 minutes 
Cost per 1/2 cup serving: 24 cents
Cleanup factor: One pan 

Ingredients: GREEN BEANS, BUTTER, GARLIC, SALT, PEPPER, LEMON JUICE

The Result

 Fresh green beans: 7
Canned green beans: 0

All the firemen immediately recognized the grayish-green color of the canned beans. Here’s what else they said:

  • “They don’t even look the same. It’s almost like they’re a different vegetable.”
  • “The crispness of the green beans is really nice. Lots of flavor.”
  • “It’s not that I dislike canned green beans, but side-by-side like this, it’s a reminder how much better they are fresh.”
  • “They remind me of school lunches.” 

  

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Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Firehouse Challenge: Supermarket turkey vs. Organic Bird

December 13, 2012 By 1 Comment

A turkey may seem like a humble, if popular, bird but it’s yielding increasing discussion in the food world. One study found that generic turkeys contained high levels of bacteria; researchers pointed to the use of mass antibiotics as the culprit. Turkeys raised on smaller farms tend to get more humane treatment than those cranked out by the millions at factory farms. 

A movement began more than a decade ago to save old-time breeds through a “heritage turkey” movement. Epicurious did a taste test of six supermarket brand turkeys and found a wide variation on flavors. Inspired by this, for the Firehouse Challenge, I purchased two turkey breasts and cooked them exactly the same. My goal:  to see if there would be a difference in flavor, texture, cooking time and to evaluate the relative cost.

Both carcasses met up in the end in a big pot of stock. You can learn more about this classic holiday bird at the CookFearless Turkey FAQ. 

Supermarket Turkey

At $1.69 a pound, my 9.28 pound fresh supermarket breast costs just under $16. The flesh and skin were noticeably pale, almost ghost-like. Also, a lot of liquid gushed forth when I opened the package over my sink. This was probably the “flavor enhancing” liquid noted on the label. The supermarket turkey cooked more quickly; it hit 165 degrees in about 2 hours 48 minutes. 

Process: With both turkeys, I massaged a thyme and sage butter under the skin and then roasted it on a rack of vegetables at 365 F degrees. I turned the breast over about 45 minutes of the cooking time, and basted each four times over the morning. The supermarket turkey cooked more quickly; it hit 165 degrees in about 2 hours 48 minutes. 
Active time:  32 minutes
Total time:  2 hours 48 minutes
Cost per serving: 89 cents 
Ingredients: Turkey, up to 7% solution of turkey broth, salt, sodium phosphate and flavorings (extract of celery and pepper).

Organic Vegetarian-Fed Turkey

For a posher bird, I went to The Fresh Market. At $3.39 per pound, my 9.48 pound fresh breast cost about $32, twice as much. When pulled from its package, it had a drier feel. The flesh had more color and the skin had a yellowish hue. The package boasted the turkey had been treated “humanely in a stress-free environment,” experienced minimal processing and had never been administered antibiotics. 

Process: Same as above
Active time:  32 minutes
Total time:  3 hours 11 minutes
Cost per serving: $1.61 
Ingredients: Turkey, less than 6% retained liquid

The Result

Supermarket turkey: 2
Fancy turkey: 5 

Although I cooked them exactly the same and basted equally until they reached a specific internal temperature, the firefighters unanimously thought the supermarket turkey was much drier than the other. However, two of the men said they liked drier meat on turkey, so they preferred the less expensive one. 

  • “This one (the organic bird) just melts in your mouth.” 
  • “This is drier, but I prefer a drier bird, so this is the one I’d go with.”
  • “They’re both good, but one tastes more turkey-ish, if you can say that.”
  • “The color is actually different, this one (the organic) has a darker color. The other meat is so pale.”
  • This one (the supermarket one) is a lot harder to cut. The texture is kind of stringy.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 -> NEXT: Mashed Potatoes

 

Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Firehouse Challenge: Stuffing

December 13, 2012 By 1 Comment

Next up came stuffing. Arguably, this has the most “active” time of any of the traditional side dishes. There’s chopping and sauteing involved. I made this dish twice, once manually cutting up the vegetables as a home cook’s pace and a second time using a food processor which dramatically cut the prep time. Otherwise, it’s just a matter of cutting up bread and letting it go stale or toasting it  in an oven.  In the photo left, the boxed version is in the upper pan, the homemade version is in the lower pan.

 

 

Homemade stuffing 

With a $1.29 loaf of bread, an onion, some celery, carrots, garlic, an egg and some broth, stuffing comes in an inexpensive, yet filling side dish. The total cost of making a pan of stuffing came out to $4.23 for about 12 servings using a 99 cent can of chicken stock. If you used your own stock or used bouillon, it cuts the cost to around $3.24 to serve a dozen. 

Process: Saute vegetables until softened. Add dried bread cubes and seasoning. Then add stock, egg and transfer to casserole and bake for 35 minutes. (See my favorite stuffing recipe.) 
Active time:  16 minutes (11 with a processor) 
Total time:  46 minutes (41 with a processor)
Cost per 1/2 cup serving: 35 cents
Ingredients: BREAD, ONION, CHICKEN OR TURKEY STOCK, CELERY, CARROT, EGG, GARLIC, DRIED SAGE, DRIED THYME, SALT, PEPPER

vs. StoveTop Stuffing

Noticeably high in sodium, as prepared it has 20% of daily sodium intake in a half cup. The box states six 1/2-cup servings. I talked to a woman at the supermarket purchasing this product who said she made it regularly and found it “yielded perhaps three to four” servings at dinner. “At Thanksgiving, people take large portions, so I am planning on making three or four boxes for eight people.” The top two ingredients are bread and high-fructose corn syrup. While the box cheerfully promises “with real turkey broth,” the ingredients list notes that it is less than 2 percent of the overall ingredients. 

Process: Melt 1/4 cup 53 percent vegetable oil spread stick into 1 1/2 cups water. Add pouch to boiling water, cover and remove from heat. Let stand five minutes, fluff with a fork.
Active time:  3 minutes
Total time:  7 minutes   
Cost: $1.39 per box + .18 cents in margarine                 
Cost per 1/2 cup serving: 26 cents

Ingredients: ENRICHED WHEAT FLOUR (WHEAT FLOUR, NIACIN, REDUCED IRON, THIAMIN, MONONITRATE (VITAMIN B1), RIBOFLAVIIN (VITAMIN B2), FOLIC ACID, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, ONIONS*, SALT, CONTAINS LESS THAN 2 PERCENT OF PARTIALLY HYDROGENATED SOYBEAN AND/OR COTTONSEED OIL,HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN, COOKED TURKEY AND TURKEY BROTH, YEAST CELERY*, PARSLEY*, TURMERIC, DISODIUM INOSINATE, DISODIUM GUANYLATE, SILICON DIOXIDE AS AN ANTI-CAKING AGENT, MALTODEXTRIN, NATURAL FLAVOR WITH BHA, BHT, CITRIC ACID AND PROPYL GALLATE AS PRESERVATIVES.   *INDICATES DRIED

The Result 

Homemade stuffing: 7
Boxed stuffing: 0 

All seven firefighters favored the homemade version, but at least three noted that the boxed version was good. Among their comments:

  • “This one [homemade version] has a lot more flavor. I can taste the vegetables in it.” 
  • “They’re both good, but the [homemade] stuffing tasted like it could have come out of the bird.”
  • “I eat [boxed stuffing] so I knew the flavor right away. It’s not bad, but more salty and dry in comparison.”
  • “The homemade stuffing is more aesthetically pleasing.”

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Filed Under: Fearless Holidays

Bread Stuffing with Apples, Bacon, and Caramelized Onions

November 16, 2012 By 1 Comment

Recipe by Diane Morgan, from The Thanksgiving Table

Who can resist crisp bacon, sautéed apples, and the slightly blackened edges of caramelized onions? With the addition of savory herbs, this is the perfect combination for stuffing. Children, especially those (like mine!) who don’t like mushrooms, really gobble this up. This stuffing pairs deliciously with the Butter-Rubbed Roast Turkey with Apple Cider Glaze. Serves 12.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
10 cups unseasoned dry bread cubes
8 ounces bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1¼ pounds pearl onions, peeled and halved
1 tablespoon sugar
2 Granny Smith apples (about 6 ounces each), peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice
3 large ribs celery, chopped
2/3 cup minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 cups homemade chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Coat a deep, 9-by-13-inch baking pan with the butter. Place the bread cubes in a very large mixing bowl. In a 10-inch sauté pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Drain and add to the bread in the bowl. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of bacon fat from the pan, reserving the extra. Add the onions to the pan and sauté over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the sugar over the onions and sauté, stirring constantly, until the onions turn golden and the edges caramelize, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add to the bread in the bowl.

Return the pan to medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the reserved bacon fat and swirl to coat the pan. Add the apples and celery and sauté, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the parsley, thyme, sage, salt, and a few grinds of pepper, and sauté 1 minute longer. Add this mixture to the bread cubes, and stir to combine. Add the beaten eggs and stock to the bowl, and mix well. Place the stuffing in the prepared pan and bake, uncovered, until the top is lightly browned and crusty, about 1 hour.

If you have room in your oven, bake the stuffing while the turkey is roasting. Otherwise, bake it beforehand and reheat it once the turkey is out.

Who wrote this recipe
Diane Morgan is an award-winning cookbook author, freelance food writer, culinary instructor, and restaurant consultant. She is the author of seventeen cookbooks. Her newest book, Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes, was published Chronicle Books in September 2012. She is the author of three books about holiday dinners, The Thanksgiving Table, The New Thanksgiving Table and the The Christmas Table. Learn more about her at DianeMorganCooks.com

Filed Under: Fearless Thanksgiving, Recipes, Side Dishes Tagged With: , ,

How to Build a Holiday Dinner Menu

November 5, 2012 By 1 Comment

If you’ve never planned a big holiday meal, it can seem daunting.

But then, remember the math. Most classic holiday dinner menus include a main dish,  gravy or sauce, potatoes, two to three vegetables, some bread, plus dessert. If you’re opting for a roast turkey – a favorite for both Thanksgiving and Christmas in the U.S. and Christmas in other countries, then you can focus on the turkey, gravy and stuffing and then delegate all or half the side dishes and at least a couple of pies (or buy them), you’ve wildly cut down on the tasks at hand. This is the same advice that Rick Rodgers, the author of Christmas 101, offers novice cooks in his excellent primer for novice cooks on Epicurious.

Food writer Jess Thomson has this advice: “I try to reduce the number of dishes I feel have to be piping hot. I think there’s a huge misconception that all the food has to be ready at exactly the same time.” With that in mind, she includes dishes that are more flexible – roasted carrots, for instance – and dishes that are better after they sit for 15 to 20 minutes, such as a potato gratin. 


Main Course

Here are my go-to recipes for classic main courses. 

Braised Lamb Shanks: Great comfort food. After initial browning, cook themselves.

  • Old-fashioned turkey with gravy:  It’s hard to beat Rodgers’ detailed step-by-step guide. Spend an extra $10 or so and buy a fresh kosher bird, which is salted and rinsed as part of the kosher process so it requires no brine. 
     
  • Ham: Easily feeds a crowd, most come pre-cooked. I’m a fan of this in-depth guide from BHG.com 
     
  • Vegetarian: Last year, I served Kim O’Donnel’s terrific Shepard’s Pie. I made two – one with meat, one with the wine braised-lentils and chard called for in her version. Everyone preferred the vegetarian option. So, there you go. 

 

Stuffing/Dressing

The good news is that all the prep for stuffing can be done a couple of days ahead and tossed into a baking dish – just don’t add the liquid or eggs until just before you’re ready to bake it along. This year, I’m once again making this fabulous stuffing with apples, bacon and caramelized onions by Diane Morgan. Want something else? I’m a big fan of this interactive build-your-own-stuffing guide from Fine Cooking.

Potatoes

For mashed potatoes, you can prep them in the afternoon and then keep them warm by putting into a bowl covered with plastic wrap and settling it into a simmering bath on the back of the stove.  My friend Chef John has a great video on making mashed potatoes, although I prefer Yukon Gold potatoes over russets, but it’s a minor point. Don’t have a potato masher? Fear not. You can always use a large fork.

My husband is partial to scalloped potatoes, and I’ve become a fan of them for big meals because once baked, they can hang out lightly covered for a half hour or so until everything’s ready. I’ve tried a dozen recipes, and my favorite by a long shot is Thomson’s potato gratin with chevre and pancetta.

Side dishes

Don’t go too crazy. With stuffing and potatoes, three vegetable side dishes are enough for groups up to about 12. After that, add another side dish for each additional three people. Don’t forget colors, and go with a variety: green beans, carrots, corn, etc. Here’s what I am making for my side dishes this year: Roasted carrots with mustard, glazed brussel sprouts and apples in brown butter and cream and roasted cauliflower with gremolata bread crumbs.

Here are three troves of reliable side dish recipes: The New York Times, Food52 and Southern Living.

Something sweet

Cranberries are a die-hard staple, and ever-so-good on leftover sandwiches. Making a dish from scratch isn’t much more difficult than opening the can and slicing them. Here’s my family recipe for cranberries with port and ginger.
 

Breads

If you’re not a baker, find a good bakery near you. I’ve become partial to a more flavorful bread, though. Last year, I made this terrific rosemary focaccia by Elise Bauer at Simply Recipes.   

 

Dessert

Pie is traditional, obviously, but it doesn’t mean you have to slave making a huge coterie of them. If you’re hosting dinner, ask other diners to bring pie and ice cream. Or, order some pies from a local bakery. If you want to try something with a twist, try my recipe for Light Pumpkin Cheesecake. Also, don’t overlook cheese as an option for dessert. “It seems like people forget the option for Thanksgiving,” says Judith Finlayson, the author of a dozen cookbooks, most recently 750 Best Appetizers. “My husband goes crazy on buying cheeses for a final course…served with port.” 

Beverages & the Holiday Pantry

Be sure to stock up on wine, non-alcoholic beverages and the like as part of your shopping. Not enough food writers focus on pantries. Here’s a good take on a holiday pantry from MyRecipes.com

Other questions? Drop us a line.

Filed Under: Fearless Holidays Tagged With:

Fearless Thanksgiving: Shopping Daze

November 3, 2012 By Leave a Comment


Story by Kathleen Flinn, with excerpts from Buy the Butter, Make the Bread by Jennifer Reese

I may be the only person on Earth who likes grocery stores. Oddly fascinated by them, actually. I can spend hours in a supermarket, marveling over this new perverse concoction or that, engaging in some passive cart voyeurism. The one time of year I don’t enjoy the aisles, however, is around Thanksgiving. Harried people make uninteresting subjects, the lines get long and a general haze of anxiety sets over the whole place.

I asked three dozen food writers on their thoughts about how to make Thanksgiving stress-free. A common refrain? Make lists.

Now, here’s the thing about lists. You often don’t think of things what ought to be on the list. To help you out, I found two great shopping lists, one prepared by Real Simple magazine and a more generic list. You won’t need or want everything on their lists, but either can be a great starting point.

First, you’ll want to make a menu. Take a look at our menu planner here. Then determine the number of guests.

How much to buy?
Big meals bring on big opportunities for food waste. Sure, that big box store might sell 25 pound sacks of potatoes, but if you’re feeding eight people, you don’t need that many. Good Housekeeping has an excellent chart on planning servings per person.

Everyone I surveyed agreed its easier to split up this shopping business. Try to do two main shopping trips, one week before the holiday and a smaller excursion a couple of days beforehand, preferably no later than Tuesday.

Here’s what you can safely purchase in advance or in bulk a week or so before (provided you’ve got the space): Onions, potatoes, carrots, celery, garlic, shallots, root vegetables such as turnips and sweet potatoes, cheeses, nuts, spices, crackers, packaged stock, flour, lard, canned vegetables (such as pumpkin), ice cream, butter, frozen vegetables (such as peas), fresh or canned cranberries, eggs, a frozen turkey (it will need time to thaw or not – see the video below) and of course, paper goods such as napkins.

Wait to buy: salad greens, dairy items such as cream, fresh fruit for pies, bread and rolls, fresh sausage, fresh herbs, seafood, fresh mushrooms, more perishable fresh vegetables such as green beans or tomatoes, or a fresh turkey (unless it specifically has a sale date after Thanksgiving and you’ve got the storage space)

What to buy?:
Turkey – fresh or frozen? What supermarket brand tastes best? See our Turkey FAQ.

On other matters, I consulted Make the Bread, Buy the Butter by Jennifer Reese, the creator of the TipsyBaker.com. The gist of her book was to evaluate the relative value and hassle factor of making something from scratch at home versus buying a shortcut such as a boxed or canned version. It’s a great book thanks to her objectiveness (she’s a former journalist) and pragmatism. She looks at the pros and cons of each option and suggests whether to make it or buy it. In a supermarket, when you’re staring down the Stove Top and that non-dairy whipped creamer, keep these comments in mind.

Boxed stuffing mix
Make it, Reese suggests.
Why? “It takes maybe five minutes longer to make scratch stuffing” than to make it from a mix. In her cost comparison, she found homemade stuffing cost about .99 cents to make, while Pepperidge Farm cost .89 cents per cup. Buy some bread and let it go stale instead.

Cranberry Sauce
Reese is agnostic on this subject. I personally think it’s so easy to make cranberry relish and it can be done ages ahead of the meal, so why not? Here’s my recipe. But lightning will not strike if you buy the can and slice it up.

Mashed Potatoes
No one can deny that peeling potatoes is a hassle. Cost-wise, factoring in the cream and butter, homemade potatoes came out at .40 cents per cup, Betty Crocker Potato Buds at .50 cents per cup. Prep tip: You can make mashed potatoes early in the day, and then keep them warm in a pan covered with plastic wrap in a pan simmering with water. See the recipe and video on making perfect mashed potatoes.

Salad
Pre-washed greens, yes. Pre-packaged salad “kits?” Not a good bargain. Just keep it simple and seasonal. Toss together some feta or bleu cheese, some diced apple or pear, a few crumbled walnuts or pine nuts with some croutons and top with an easy vinaigrette.

Croutons
Make them. “It’s ludicrous to the point of heartbreaking that factories are devoted to manufacturing pellets of stale-tasting bread…” Reese notes. Here’s an easy recipe from Alice Currah at SavorySweetLife.  You just need to buy some bread, cut it up, toss it with some olive oil or butter, a few herbs and salt, then and toast it in the oven.

Vinaigrette
Anyone who has read my book knows I’m no fan of pre-made vinaigrette. Rather than pick up a bottle of vinaigrette, consider whether you’ve got decent olive oil and some vinegar at home. Then, watch my video on the basics of making it.

Pie crust
“Your first 10 pie crusts may look like kindergarten art projects, but so long as the edges are presentable… no one who eats the pie will know or care.” Reese acknowledges it takes more time, but the resulting flavor is worth it. A homemade crust made with butter and lard (a la Kate McDermott‘s recipe) cost about $1, while pre-made crust start at $1.70 for store brands. I’ve seen them top out at $3.79 each in a local co-op.

Whipped cream
Make it. “Although it’s fun to spray and makes an exciting sound, most aerosolized cream tastes fake,” Reese notes. Here’s a recipe for whipped cream: Put a cup into a bowl, add a bit of sugar and whip with a whisks or a fork or electric beaters until soft peaks forms.

Let’s not forget that Thanksgiving is a time for sharing. People want to help you out on the holidays. Don’t feel you’re shirking any duties by delegating a few dishes, or asking people to pick something up.

Years ago, when living in London, I hosted Thanksgiving. Pumpkin pie puree isn’t exactly a standard supermarket staple in the UK and I couldn’t find it anywhere. I planned an apple pie just in case, but on a whim asked my friend if she knew where to find some. “Leave it to me,” she said. I did. She showed up at my office the day before dinner with a can of it — from the food halls at Harrod’s. It was crazy expensive, about $6 a can, but it was so worth it. As I made the pie, I thought of my friend passing the famed caviar counter in pursuit of her pumpkin. She talked about it through dinner, and years later, we have a great story. I don’t even remember how the pie turned out. It doesn’t matter.

Thanksgiving isn’t about looking good, but enjoying the good things in your life.

Filed Under: Fearless Thanksgiving

Fearless Thanksgiving: Tips from the Pros

October 30, 2012 By 1 Comment

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holiday meals can cause even confident cooks anxiety. Here you’ll find my own tips, plus some key ones from my food writer friends - Kathleen.


General Planning Tips

1. Make Lists
“Make lots of lists,” advises Diane Morgan, the author of The New Thanksgiving Table and The Thanksgiving Table. “Make a grocery list and divide it among the different stores you will have to shop at – butcher shop, bakery, wine shop, supermarket.” Sheri Wetherall, editor in chief of Foodista.com, says not to beat yourself up for using some thoughtful prepackaged items. “Order rolls from your local bakery; buy pre-washed salad greens,” she says. 

2. Write down your menu 
Check out the CookFearless guide to Thanksgiving menu planning.  Don’t overlook cheese as an option for dessert. “It seems like people forget the option for Thanksgiving,” says Judith Finlayson, the author of a dozen cookbooks, most recently 750 Best Appetizers. “My husband goes crazy on buying cheeses for a final course…served with port.

3. Include “flexible” dishes
Here’s food writer Jess Thomson’s big secret. “I always try to reduce the number of dishes I feel have to be piping hot. I think there’s a huge misconception that all the food has to be ready at exactly the same time. With that in mind, I always include dishes that are more flexible–roasted carrots, for example–and dishes that are really better after they sit for 15 or 20 minutes, like a potato gratin. ”

4. Don’t be afraid to serve the same menu from last year
While food editors at magazines try to find ways to spice up the traditional favorites, the reality is that many people look forward to the classics. “I always make the same thing…no one will allow me to change it,” Finlayson says. “Turns out that’s great because I don’t need to spend any time thinking about what to make: turkey, giblet gravy, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts and my grandmother’s sage and onion stuffing.”

5. Develop a schedule
Write down a full schedule for cooking, setting the table, all the tasks you need to do, including fixing up the bathroom, advise Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, co-founders of Food52.com. “Start as early as you can, even a week ahead,” Hesser says. “You don’t want to have all of your cooking done before the big day, you want to have everything else done, so you can cook in a relaxed way and hang out with your family as you do so.” 

6. Review your recipes a few days ahead of time
This tip comes from veteran cookbook author Cynthia Nims. Not only can you be assured you’ve got ingredients covered, but also “make sure techniques don’t trip you up,” she says.

7. Enlist help with the cooking
Who says you have to do all the cooking? “Just because the Pilgrims invited the Indians for the first harvest feast didn’t mean the Indians came empty-handed,” Morgan says. She suggests making a menu and then calling up guests to assign them a dish. Be sure to specify if they plan to bring it in a table-ready service piece or if they’re showing up with their tomato tart in Tupperware, so you’ll know whether to be prepared with a serving dish and utensils for their contribution.

8. Embrace a holiday dinner routine
Cookbook author Judith Finlayson’s strategy of enlisting help has developed into a holiday routine. “My daughter is now well trained for celebratory meals. She comes home for the day and helps with all the prepping and bastes the turkey if I decide I need a quick nap.  Also, we have regular guests who do specific things every year.  One couple makes gravlax for the starter.  They bring it already-sliced on a platter, accompanying dill sauce in its small bowl ready to be unwrapped, pumpernickel rounds ready-to-go.  We all expect it and look forward to its arrival and the uncorking of the champagne. Our regular family guests (six in total) bring dessert.  That varies from year to year but we have our rhythms and it all works out. One of the now-grown-up kids, who likes to cook, brings a roasted vegetable dish, which can be kept warm in the oven. “

9. Use Technology
If you use Evite, you can even jot down a menu and guests can claim what they want to cook. “Hey, you can even assign someone kitchen duty — just be sure you give them an extra beverage to sip while they’re elbow-deep in dishes,” Morgan suggests.

10. Allow enough time for the turkey to thaw
“If you are using a frozen turkey, allow at least five days for it to thaw slowly in the fridge,” says meat guru and cookbook author Bruce Aidells.  ”Better still, spend the money and buy a fresh heirloom turkey.” For more turkey tips, see the Turkey FAQ.

11. Get your knife or knives sharpened
If you’ve got a good chef’s knife, take it in to get it sharpened ahead of the big meal. Some options: Most Sur La Table outlets, cutlery shops, good local hardware stores and even restaurant supply outlets. Don’t have a decent chef’s knife? Maybe it’s time for an early holiday gift for yourself. This is a good time to sharpen your knife skills.

 

Table Preparations

12. Set your table the night (or even two) days before.
Restaurants make sure all their tables are set for the next service. This includes making sure water pitchers are ready for filling, corkscrews are nearby for wine, water glasses are in place and so on. If you’re going to serve coffee, make sure you’ve got the coffee cups and set up the coffee ahead of dinner to be ready at dessert.

13. Don’t forget the kids table
Lay in some sparkling cider and add some fun factor to their table. TipJunkie has some great ideas that reach beyond your usual hand turkey drawings.

14. Pull out your table linens a few days in advance
Another good reason to set your table ahead of time is to be sure it’s all clean. “Splurge and have your table linens pressed by your dry cleaner!” Wetherall suggests. 

 15. Inventory your service and cookware
Set out your serving bowls, serving utensils and cookware as soon as you’ve figured out your menu.

This is particularly important if you’re new to entertaining. Write out your menu, then pull down the dish you plan to serve it in from what you’ll use to serve the turkey to whatever will hold butter for rolls, plus every single utensil you need. Put a post-it note on each item and leave them out if you can. In most cases, “missing” items can easily be borrowed. It’s better to know ahead of time than freaking at the last-minute that you forgot to think about a ladle for the gravy. Also, I can’t stress how valuable little tongs  and pie servers are when hosting a big dinner.

 

Kitchen Planning

16. Mise en place
In French, this loosely translates to “everything in place,” and it’s a common chef’s strategy for kitchen efficiency. It means get as much prepped as possible before cooking. In my house, I do most of the peeling, chopping and measuring of ingredients a night or two prior to cooking; simply put chopped stuff into storage bins or bags and mark them as needed.

You can even measure out ingredients for each recipe ahead of time, right down to spices. (Tip: Use little Dixie cups.) Put them all together with a photocopy or printout of the recipe. The next day, it’s not only a simple assembly job, it’s also a great place to steer that relative who arrives midday and says, “Can I help?” Now they can, without bothering you every couple of minutes to ask where you keep various items.

Note: The one exception I make are potatoes for mashing. While you can store peeled potatoes in water overnight, they keep their color and taste better when freshly peeled.

17. Butter trick
Take sticks of butter and cut them into one tablespoon squares and set inside your fridge in a bowl. All the pros do this.

18. Use your grill
If temperature friendly outside, use your grill. It can act as an extra burner. Heck, you can even cook your turkey on the grill. Meat expert Aidells demonstrates how in this whimsical cartoon from Sunset magazine. 

19. Out of counter space? Go vertical
Professional kitchens employ vertical racks known as “speed racks.” Depending on your kitchen, consider clearing out a cupboard hoarding cereals and pantry items and set it into a box in a bedroom so that you can use that area for extra space to set finished dishes, pies or collect all your mise en place while you’re cooking. (While you’re putting it back, go through the box and see what you’ve not used in the past six months and consider donating it to a food bank.

 

Thanksgiving Day Tips

20. Make punch
“For big gatherings, I like to make punch with a twist,” said Monica Bhide, author of Modern Spice and the blog A Life of Spice. “That way people can help themselves and you are not tied to your bar doling out specialty cocktails to a large crowd.”

21. Know the turkey to take longer than you expect
“In my experience of cooking turkeys since I was 14, I learned this — the turkey always, ALWAYS, takes longer to cook than all the cookbooks say,” says Olga Massov, the founder of The Sassy Radish. “The best thing to do is buy one of those thermometers that can be inserted and monitored remotely so you don’t open the oven door and let heat escape, thereby losing precious cooking time and let the turkey get to 161 degrees. Then pull it out and let it sit for 30 minutes. Because it will continue to cook (and the temp will climb to the approved 165) while it sits… “

22. Hold food over steam, not just in the oven
One of the hardest thing for home cooks putting on a big meal is getting everything hot to the table at once. Most people hold things to keep them hot in the oven, but then that space becomes a premium if it’s still being employed, and can overcook food. So, instead, think about those long steam tables at buffets and fill a few pans with water, heat it up, then place your serving bowl or pan in the hot water, cover it with a lid, foil or heat-resistant plastic wrap. Have more food than burners? I keep a couple of trivets near the stove and rotate the foods around as more food finishes as mealtime approaches.

23. Put hot food on warm plates
“Hot delicious food deserves warm plates,” says Morgan. “You can warm your plates in a clean dishwasher set on the ‘dry’ cycle. Some dishwashers even have a plate warming feature or run the plates under very hot water, dry them and then wrap them in a terry towel until needed.”

24. Be safe
Ask everyone in your kitchen to wear shoes with closed toes while cooking. Unusual activity can cause chaos to occur in a kitchen, from hot gravy scalds to a knife falling unexpectedly and cause injury. Be sure you’ve got good oven mitts and keep them handy and dry as anything even moist can transmit heat and cause burns. Keep handwash and paper towels near the sink and be sure everyone washes hands frequently, not just after touching the turkey. Keep counters clear of debris and avoid stacking anything perilously on counters.

25. Have a plan for the dirty dishes
If you’re using separate dishes for dessert, stack them near the table. Count silverware to assure you’ve got enough for each course, or set up a bowl with hot soapy water for a quick cleaning between courses. For years, I’ve employed a laundry basket or recycling bin as a bus tub. As dishes are gathered, they’re stacked in the tub along with non-fragile glassware, and set aside until ready for cleaning; the tub can even be set in another room or on the floor. They’re safe, out of the way and it eliminates the “immediacy” of having to race to clean up.

 

Post Dinner 

 26. Take notes
After every Thanksgiving, Cheryl Sternman Rule heads straight to her computer while her husband does all the dishes. “So the first tip is to make your spouse/partner do all the dishes. That’s key.” But she’s doing something critical — making  detailed notes about what dishes she made that year (with links to the recipes employed, what worked, and what didn’t immediately after her guests leave. If she modified a recipe, say added bourbon to the whipped cream for the pumpkin pie or used a special brine, she jots it all down.

“The idea is to realize that our memories aren’t always reliable when it comes to big annual occasions, and having these notes can save an enormous amount of time when planning for next year’s holiday. This is also a great place to jot down any food allergies or aversions that guests at your Thanksgiving table had so you’ll be prepared to make accommodations for those same folks next year.”

 

Most Important…

27. We can’t all be Martha. Cut yourself some slack
Remember, Julia Child suggested that you avoid apologizing for anything you felt went wrong in the kitchen. So you cooked the green beans too long, or your pie doesn’t look like the picture. So what? No one is going to tell you to pack your knives go home. Even food pros have had their share of kitchen disasters. 

Food writer Cynthia Lair recounts a holiday 20-plus years ago in which she tried to mash stone-cold boiled potatoes. “Did you know that when boiled potatoes are cold, the mixer will suck the potatoes up into all the gears of the mixer until it shorts out? Well, neither did I.” The potatoes were beyond saving, as was the mixer. “But the salve here is that I have this embarassing story to tell and laugh about! We don’t tend to remember the successes as clearly, do we?”

Wetherall of Foodista.com had to figure out a way to cook a turkey without an oven. “Three years ago our oven broke a couple of days before Thanksgiving and we couldn’t get a new one in time, so we had this retro-looking countertop roaster overnighted to us. I don’t think the company has changed the design since the 50s. I was very skeptical, but it cooked our turkey perfectly! The most delicious turkey we’ve ever made!” To this day, the Foodista founders’ oven remains broken. “Indeed, it’s like the cobbler’s children have no shoes.”

It’s Thanksgiving, and all you should do is give thanks for the good stuff in your life, and pack up the rest with the  leftovers.

Filed Under: Fearless Thanksgiving Tagged With: